Changing older club lofts???

Nothing wrong with sticking to an older set that works for you. I personally would not mess with bending them to stronger lofts in an attempt to gain false yardage. Who cares if you hit a club with a 7 on the bottom and your friend hits the same distance with a club that says 8? All that matters is your confidence to hit the shot you have and how well you do it. Bending your irons will change the sole interaction with the turf and might start to cause you other problems you never had. If you are looking to make a change, I think you should consider just trading up, even if it is for a used set of prior generation T100 or T100S and not messing up the AP2's. When you are ready to sell, they will have better value if not altered. My thoughts anyway...

The lofts on the T100 are almost if not same loft as your 16 year old AP2. The other T series irons with weaker lofts take advantage of technology with placing tungsten weights to maintain the launch. Jacking your lofts won’t necessarily improve distance but will change turf interaction.

No, but make sure you use a good repair person, preferably someone who knows Titleist clubs. Those clubs are forged and can only be bent a few degrees and if one is broken, they cannot be replaced. Those were/are some great irons. I have a set and just refuse to let them go. I current play the T350s and love the new technology. They also are forged. At 78 I need all the help I can get, with newer heads and shafts. My fitter made that possible.

I would not. To me, 16 years is way to long, but to each his own.

Take the clubs to a place that has a Mitchell bending machine. BUT, don't bend the clubs more than 2 degrees. Current iron specs might say to bend the clubs a lot more than 2 degrees. DON't bend the clubs more than 2 degrees.

My Tour caddy buddies have always said don't do anything other than a degree or so on Lie Angle unless you have access to a Tour van. There just aren't that many guys out there that really know how to bend/adjust. I've tended to listen to them. Then again there's a reason many Tour players prefer the older model irons. Stick with the spec's on the old irons.

What hasn’t changed on player irons is that a 9 iron is still 42*.

695MB 7 iron is 36*. T150 8 iron is 36*. The older 7 iron is 1/2” longer.

I have a 695MB 8 iron set to 38* vs a T150 8 iron at 36*. The difference is about 4 yards.

The furthest ball is the T150. The one near the palm tree to the right is the 695MB.


My main playing bag has a T150 8 iron and 690CB 9 iron at 42*. My minimalist iron setup is a 695 MB 8 iron and 46-10F PW.

BRad, as long as the grooves on those AP2s are still in good shape, I see no reason to change the lofts. If you do, the bounce of each will change as will the turf interaction, potentially making them harder to hit, not easier. If you finally decide that you need a stronger lofted set, then it is time to be fit for some new ones to get the ones that are right for your game today.

Another issue with older clubs is the lie angle. Modern clubs are more upright than older clubs. And, if you hit a lot of balls on a range, there's a good chance you've altered the lie angle. So if you are truly attached to an older set of clubs, see your golf pro and get the lie angles checked.

It is the cast type irons that are hard to bend.

I learned my lesson about bending lofts in 2018. Set an SM6 60-12 to 57. Snapped the hosel when someone attempted to bend loft back to 58*.

I tend to bend strong vice weak.

For a year and a half I was playing a 716CB 7 iron at 32* and 716MB 8 iron at 39*. I used a Vokey 46-10F.


I bend S, K and D grind 2* strong because I like the bounce better. For me, a 54-10S bent to 52 is more versatile than 52-08F. I can play D and K grind under a wide range of conditions. I’m also more comfortable swinging a 58-12D bent to 56*.

Thanks for the reply’s guys. I’m planning on just leaving the 08 AP 2’s alone and get fit for a new set. I planning keeping the AP2s because they have been good to me.