SureFit Adjustment - How Much Draw

Sorry but I don't think anyone will provide you with an answer to this, as this is very swing-specific... and with everyone's swing their own, there is no one number. Go hit the range, play with the settings, and see how many yards draw it produces for your swing.

Swing path, wrist turn over, angle of attack , rotation in the hips and shoulders all effect shot shape so how do you think that anyone can answer this question. Me and my playing partner both swing a D2 same shaft. He has his set to neutral and draws it 15-20 yards. I have mine set to maximum draw and I hit a nice little 5 yd baby draw. The questions you are asking are impossible to answer

I agree with Robert, however it will favor a draw (with more draw at 1.5 setting) and at both settings assuming you are currently driving it straight at A1 setting. If you are using the 917 woods you will also want to discuss how the weight setting is set (neutral, draw or fade). This internal weight can fine tune what you are trying to accomplish.

I realize that an individual’s swing dynamics have an influence on ball flight as various shafts do too, but I am not a single-digit handicapper who truly benefits from fine-tuning the hosel setting. I was not expecting a precise answer as opined above, just wondering what magnitude of draw-fade could be expected changing from A-1 to C-1 to A-3.

After my original post I thought about this some more and using trigonometry to simplify (no shot tracker calculations of spin rate, launch angle, etc.) a predicted draw or fade, at 265 yards the ball will be approximately four yards off-center with 0.75° upright lie and twice that for the 1.5° setting. Assuming that I hit it pure every time, experimenting with hosel settings to that level of granularity will not significantly affect my game as it would for a scratch golfer.

My natural ball flight is neutral and I have shot 79 without intentionally working the ball. Those seven additional strokes were not from having the wrong hosel setting, instead they came from other typical weekend golfer mistakes … bad approach, three putt, etc. Because a bad swing will have worse results than a wrong hosel setting, for me I think there is little benefit changing from the factory A-1 setting at this time. I normally shoot low-to-mid 80s, so when I consistently shoot in the 70s, that will be time better spent fine-tuning the hosel setting. Thanks for everybody’s input.

A1 is neutral face angle and standard lie. C1 is .75 flat and 1.5* open. About 5 yards of fade based on the face angle. A3 is 1.5* closed and 1.5* upright. One would get about 10 yards draw on the face angle.

I found about a 5 yard fade going from A4 to D4. Oddly, if I set the driver to A3 I would hit a slight block. Remember when you increase the lie angle you also effectively lengthen the club and ball contact is more toward the heel.

Didn't see a huge difference between A4 and B3.

I have my shaft length at 44.5" and setting at A4 (12* loft).

Maybe it is me.

After reading the responses, I realize my original post is a bit misleading. I am not wanting to know the human influence of a golf swing - path, wrist turn, angle of attack, hip rotation, yada yada yada - that affects a draw or a fade.

If the R&D guys use a robotic club tester on a 9.5° driver with a stiff flex shaft at 100 MPH swing speed for the hosel setting of A-1, that will produce a repeatable shot down the center. The intention of my original post is to understand, making no other changes besides A-3 and C-1 hosel settings, what is the resulting draw and fade with the robotic club tester at what should be a ± 265 yard drive.